Is This The Breed For You?

You've seen these big, beautiful white dogs. You're impressed, naturally. You think you want one. This is understandable. But . . . is this the breed for you? They are not the ideal pet for everyone! 
The mature, sedate Great Pyrenees which you have seen did not just materialize suddenly. It grew from a cuddly, lovable ball of fluff which at 8-12 weeks of age is most captivating. From puppyhood to adulthood is a great distance and a considerable time. As a breed they are remarkably healthy and long lived. They have few major genetic problems and usually live to be 10-12 years old. 
Pyrs combine a great intelligence with a deep devotion to family and home, and a natural-born instinct to guard and protect. While trustworthy, affectionate, gentle and tractable, they can become, when and if the need arises, protective guardians of their family and their territory. Thus, they command respect as watch dogs as well as admiration as pets. 
Adult Pyrs are placid by nature and calm in the house, enjoying quiet periods in which to rest and sleep. But they are a large breed and as such are not always suited to life in a small apartment or urban setting with little yard space and lots of activity around. They want their life to be consistent and predictable. 
The addition of a dog to your family is a major decision and deserves a great deal of time and thought. A Great Pyrenees is placid by nature, so despite their size, they are excellent house dogs. Yes, an adult Pyr is a beautiful, calm dog, but there are other considerations-have you thought of these? 

Considerations
Are you physically able to handle a very large dog? Basically gentle, they are strong, and during the phases of puppyhood can be a real challenge. 
Does dog hair around the house bother you? If so, forget the Pyrenees. While with routine grooming they are not much different than any other breed, they do shed and there are white hairs in Pyr homes and on Pyr people. 
A Pyr needs love and attention on a daily basis. Are you and your family able to provide this? A lonesome Pyr is a bored dog, and a bored dog can become destructive. 
Great Pyrenees are at heart guard dogs and members of the great family of livestock guardian dogs. As such, they share with them certain strong characteristics. Pyrs were bred to be left alone with the sheep up in the mountain valleys. They are a guard dog by instinct, not by training. Their basic personality is different from most breeds, since most breeds were bred to take commands from people, while Pyrs were bred to work on their own. 
A Great Pyrenees is an intelligent, sometimes willful animal. They have minds of their own and are not easily obedience trained. Things that you consider important may not be the same things your Pyrenees considers important. Many are almost cat-like, in their independence. 
If you require a dog who will be a great "off-leash" companion for your outdoor activities, if you want a dog who will follow your every command, or if you want a competition obedience dog, the Pyrenees is probably not for you. 
Do you have room for a Pyr? They are large and must be confined in a well fenced area, or they will exercise their powerful instinct to establish and patrol a large territory. When out of the fence they must be kept on lead at all times. 
Like all livestock guardian breeds, Great Pyrenees are barkers, especially at night. The amount of barking varies from individual to individual, but the instinct is there and in some cases can cause major problems. Most Great Pyrenees in urban or suburban settings must be kept indoors at night. 
The Great Pyrenees is a guard dog and as such cannot be expected to welcome uninvited intrusions onto your property. They will accept anyone whom you invite into your home. They are not "attack" dogs, but can be very intimidating to the surprised visitor. It is an owner's obligation to maintain a Great Pyrenees so that his guarding instincts can be exercised in a responsible way. 
These are things to think about. If you find you've answered them honestly and still want a Pyr, here are some suggestions as to how you should choose your puppy. 

A Reputable Breeder
Choose a reputable breeder instead of the pet store or a casual "backyard" breeder. Lists of breeders are available from local Great Pyrenees clubs and from the national club. Ask to see the parents of the puppy you are interested in. It is suggested that you inquire if both parents were certified clear of hip dysplasia. Make sure the surroundings are clean and that the puppy is healthy. Look for the happy, outgoing puppy. You don't want a shy, emaciated or sickly-appearing pup. Make sure the coat carries a glossy shine, a sign of good health. There should be no discharge from eyes or nose, and a pup should stand up on strong legs and good feet. 
Inquire about a breeder-buyer contract which explains what is expected of you, the buyer, and of the breeder. Your pup should come from registered parents, should have a pedigree from the breeder, a health record showing when and what had been given in the way of inoculations and medication, and care and feeding instructions. 
If you're buying a puppy, it should be at least 8 weeks old. Carefully bred and cared for Great Pyrenees puppies are not inexpensive. While prices may vary, people who sell pups for much less than the average for your area probably have not put as much time or care into the breeding or rearing of their pups. 

Choices
Did you consider buying a mature dog? Many breeders have older dogs which they will place in pet homes. And many local clubs have "rescue" dogs in need of good homes. These older dogs usually are housebroken and have had preliminary training. Most adult Pyrs adjust readily to a new home, but a trial period should be considered. Such a purchase may be just what you want, allowing you to skip the puppy-adolescent growth stage. 
Male or female? This is a personal choice. The male is larger, and carries more coat, but they both show the same affection for, and protection of, their family. The bitch, unless spayed will come into season every six months, the first season is usually around a year of age. The decision as to which sex is yours. If the animal is to be a companion, and not for breeding, have it spayed or neutered at 6-8 months of age. A neutered animal will make a happier and healthier pet, and will probably live longer. 
(A publication of the Great Pyrenees Club of America, rev. 1992.)

Official Standard Of The Breed

GENERAL APPEARANCE:
The Great Pyrenees dog conveys the distinct impression of elegance and unsurpassed beauty combined with great overall size and majesty. He has a white or principally white coat that may contain markings of badger, gray, or varying shades of tan. He possesses a keen intelligence and a kindly, while regal, expression. Exhibiting a unique elegance of bearing and movement, his soundness and coordination show unmistakably the purpose for which he has been bred, the strenuous work of guarding the flocks in all kinds of weather on the steep mountain slopes of the Pyrenees. 

SIZE, PROPORTION, SUBSTANCE:
Size - The height at the withers ranges from 27 inches to 32 inches for dogs and from 25 inches to 29 inches for bitches. A 27 inch dog weighs about 100 pounds and a 25 inch bitch weighs about 85 pounds. Weight is in proportion to the overall size and structure. 
Proportion - The Great Pyrenees is a balanced dog with the height measured at the withers being somewhat less than the length of the body measured from the point of the shoulder to the rearmost projection of the upper thigh (buttocks). These proportions create a somewhat rectangular dog, slightly longer than it is tall. Front and rear angulation are balanced. 
Substance - The Great Pyrenees is a dog of medium substance whose coat deceives those who do not feel the bone and muscle. Commensurate with his size and impression of elegance there is sufficient bone and muscle to provide a balance with the frame. 
Faults: Size - Dogs and bitches under minimum size or over maximum size. Substance - Dogs too heavily boned or too lightly boned to be in balance with their frame. 

HEAD:
Correct head and expression are essential to the breed. The head is not heavy in proportion to the size of the dog. It is wedge shaped with a slightly rounded crown. 
Expression - The expression is elegant, intelligent and contemplative. 
Eyes - Medium sized, almond shaped, set slightly obliquely, rich dark brown. Eyelids are close fitting with black rims. 
Ears - Small to medium in size, V-shaped with rounded tips, set on at eye level, normally carried low, flat, and close to the head. There is a characteristic meeting of the hair of the upper and lower face which forms a line from the outer corner of the eye to the base of the ear. Skull and Muzzle-The muzzle is approximately equal in length to the back skull. The width and length of the skull are approximately equal. The muzzle blends smoothly with the skull. The cheeks are flat. There is sufficient fill under the eyes. A slight furrow exists between the eyes. There is no apparent stop. The boney eyebrow ridges are only slightly developed. Lips are tight fitting with the upper lip just covering the lower lip. There is a strong lower jaw. The nose and lips are black. 
Teeth - A scissor bite is preferred, but a level bite is acceptable. It is not unusual to see dropped (receding) lower central incisor teeth. 
Faults: Too heavy head (St. Bernard or Newfoundland-like). Too narrow or small skull. Foxy appearance. Presence of an apparent stop. Missing pigmentation on nose, eye rims, or lips. Eyelids round, triangular, loose or small. Overshot, undershot, wry mouth. 

NECK, TOPLINE, BODY:
Neck - Strongly muscled and of medium length, with minimal dewlap. 
Topline - The backline is level. 
Body - The chest is moderately broad. The rib cage is well sprung, oval in shape, and of sufficient depth to reach the elbows. Back and loin are broad and strongly coupled with some tuck-up. The croup is gently sloping with the tail set on just below the level of the back. 
Tail - The tailbones are of sufficient length to reach the hock. The tail is well plumed, carried low in repose and may be carried over the back, "making the wheel," when aroused. When present a "shepherd's crook" at the end of the tail accentuates the plume. When gaiting, the tail may be carried either over the back or low. Both carriages are equally correct. 
Fault: Barrel ribs. 

FOREQUARTERS:
Shoulders - The shoulders are well laid back, well muscled, and lie close to the body. The upper arm meets the shoulder blade at approximately a right angle. The upper arm angles backward from the point of the shoulder to the elbow and is never perpendicular to the ground. The length of the shoulder blade and the upper arm is approximately equal. The height from the ground to the elbow appears approximately equal to the height from the elbow to the withers. 
Forelegs - The legs are of sufficient bone and muscle to provide a balance with the frame. The elbows are close to the body and point directly to the rear when standing and gaiting. The forelegs, when viewed from the side, are located directly under the withers and are straight and vertical to the ground. The elbows, when viewed from the front, are set in a straight line from the point of shoulder to the wrist. Front pasterns are strong and flexible. Each foreleg carries a single dewclaw. 
Front Feet - Rounded, close-cupped, well padded, toes well arched. 

HINDQUARTERS:
The angulation of the hindguarters is similar in degree to that of the forequarters. 
Thighs - Strongly muscular upper thighs extend from the pelvis at right angles. The upper thigh is the same length as the lower thigh, creating moderate stifle joint angulation when viewed in profile. The rear pastern (metatarsus) is of medium length and perpendicular to the ground as the dog stands naturally. This produces a moderate degree of angulation in the hock joint, when viewed from the side. The hindquarters from the hip to the rear pastern are straight and parallel, as viewed from the rear. The rear legs are of sufficient bone and muscle to provide a balance with the frame. Double dewclaws are located on each rear leg. 
Rear Feet - The rear feet have a structural tendency to toe out slightly. This breed characteristic is not to be confused with cow-hocks. The rear feet, like the forefeet, are rounded, close-cupped, well padded with toes well arched. 
Fault: Absence of double dewclaws on each rear leg.
 
COAT:
The weather resistant double coat consists of a long, flat, thick, outer coat of coarse hair, straight or slightly undulating, and lying over a dense, fine, woolly undercoat. The coat is more profuse about the neck and shoulders where it forms a ruff or mane which is more pronounced in males. Longer hair on the tail forms a plume. There is feathering along the back of the front legs and along the back of the thighs, giving a "pantaloon" effect. The hair on the face and ears is shorter and of finer texture. Correctness of coat is more important than abundance of coat. 
Faults: Curly coat. Stand-off coat (Samoyed type). 

COLOR:
White or white with markings of gray, badger, reddish brown, or varying shades of tan. Markings of varying size may appear on the ears, head (including a full face mask), tail, and as a few body spots. The undercoat may be white or shaded. All of the above described colorings and locations are characteristic of the breed and equally correct. 
Fault: Outer coat markings covering more than one third of the body. 

GAIT:
The Great Pyrenees moves smoothly and elegantly, true and straight ahead, exhibiting both power and agility. The stride is well balanced with good reach and strong drive. The legs tend to move toward the center line as speed increases. Ease and efficiency of movement are more important than speed. 

TEMPERAMENT:
Character and temperament are of utmost importance. In nature, the Great Pyrenees is confident, gentle, and affectionate. While territorial and protective of his flock or family when necessary, his general demeanor is one of quite composure, both patient and tolerant. He is strong willed, independent and somewhat reserved, yet attentive, fearless and loyal to his charges both human and animal. 
Although the Great Pyrenees may appear reserved in the show ring, any sign of excessive shyness, nervousness, or aggression to humans is unacceptable and must be considered an extremely serious fault. 
(A publication of the Great Pyrenees Club of America.Effective August 1, 1992)

Care, Feeding and Early Training

Caring for a Great Pyrenees is a labor of love. Great Pyrenees need affection, kindness and human companionship. 
Provide your new puppy-or new adult dog-with a quiet place of its own. The puppy should have a place to go when it wants to be left alone-he needs lots of sleep. And remember, at this age the puppy is just a baby. Children must learn not tease or handle the puppy roughly. It is unwise to leave a puppy alone and free in a home. He will likely become bored and lonely and in that mood look for mischief to get into, such as chewing up sofa pillows, working on rugs or furniture. Always confine him in a pen or crate until you return. Leave him toys to play with, some puppy biscuits to chew on, and fresh water. 
Toys are very important for your puppy. Large hard rubber balls and toys are good, as well as good-quality commercial dog chew bones and old knotted socks. Do not let a puppy chew old shoes, clothing or bits of paper lest this taste be carried over to your good shoes, clothing or a temporarily laid-down daily newspaper. 
Housebreaking will be an immediate concern. The Great Pyrenees is easily housebroken if you persist in simple rules, such as always taking the puppy out the same door to relieve himself. Observe your puppy carefully for signs of restlessness until he learns to communicate his needs. Put your puppy out the first thing in the morning, after each meal and nap, the last thing at night, and at any other time when he appears to be restless. When the puppy is very young, you will probably have to get up with him once during the night as a baby cannot be expected to be continent throughout the night. Persistence and adherence to the same procedure, day after day, will housebreak the puppy in a short period of time. Your puppy will be quick to learn, as Pyrs are naturally clean. 
Never allow your Great Pyrenees to roam at will. A well fenced yard is a must for safety, as well as compliance with zoning and nuisance ordinances in most communities. With so many fast-moving cars, it is not safe for a puppy or adult dog, nor is it fair to your neighbors for a dog to be loose. This includes never allowing the dog off leash unless it is confined. 
Never tie a dog outside unsupervised. It promotes aggressiveness or other personality changes, suspicion of what is beyond his reach and susceptibility to being teased or frustrated. Furthermore, it can be dangerous because the dog may wrap himself in the chain, or even hang himself. 
A precautionary note! Beware of slick surfaces and highly polished floors as footing for puppies and adolescents. They do not give adequate traction. If puppies are allowed to play on such surfaces, they may slip and hurt themselves, possibly causing an injury, or they may develop "sea-legs" which will prevent their proper development. Start puppies on a rough surface for proper footing. 
Always have fresh, cold water available and provide adequate shade for the puppy or grown dog. Also, do not leave a dog in a closed car. 
There is a saying that "a dog is only as good as what goes into him". This is as applicable to the quality and amount of food as it is to the bloodlines of his ancestors. So, don't skimp. A large breed grows fast and has a lot of developing to do in a short period of time. 
Although a Great Pyrenees may mature slowly, your puppy grows fast and needs wholesome, nourishing food. Nothing takes the place of a good quality balanced dog food, or puppy food for young dogs. Dogs prefer consistency. Quality, commercial foods insure nutritional balance; manufacturers urge you not to supplement by providing additional additives to their already correct mixture. Give dog biscuits (the hard, chewing kind); they are good for cleaning the teeth. Do not give bones for these can splinter and thus be dangerous. 
Feed regularly prepared, fresh food at set times and in clean dishes. There are many excellent commercial dog foods available to canine owners, never feed generic dog food. If a dog appears to be off his feed, listless or ill, take him to your veterinarian for treatment-the sooner the better! If you check your dog's temperature (with a rectal thermometer) remember that the normal temperature for a dog runs between 101 - 102° F. 
Maintain a regular check-up for your dog in the interest of good health. See your veterinarian on schedule to check for worms, other parasites, heart worm, etc. Have the teeth checked for tartar. Give booster shots as recommended by your veterinarian. Watch, too, for ear infections, fungus between the toes and "hot spots", which sometimes occur on the skin of long-haired, double-coated dogs. 
Great Pyrenees have a low metabolism. Please always caution your veterinarian about weighing your Pyr before giving any anesthetic to the dog, and only give "to effect". 
Check the ears periodically for mites, dampness and excess wax. Keep ears dry as damp ears often play host to fungus infections or mites. A swab of cotton on the finger, dampened with alcohol, can be used to clean the exterior ear canals. Dry ear powder may also be used to keep ears dry. 
Clip toenails and dewclaws regularly. This insures that they do not grow so long as to curl under and into the flesh. Never let anyone tell you the dewclaws should be removed. They are a part of the breed, one of its several identifying characteristics and thought to have a "snow-shoe" effect. 
Check eyebrows at least monthly to make sure they do not curl downward and possibly into the eyes, causing irritation. If necessary, clip them, being very careful of the sharp points of the scissors. 
Never clip a Great Pyrenees in the summer. A Pyrenees needs his coat for protection from the sun. The "world's most beautiful dog" requires a minimum of grooming care to keep him looking beautiful. However, care should consist of a good brushing once or twice a week to keep the coat in top condition and clean. The Pyrenean coat is coarse and hence a brush should remove the dirt. Loose under-coat can be removed easily with a wide-toothed comb or "rake". 
Leash breaking should be undertaken when you get your puppy. Again, use kindness and patience. Fit a buckle collar on the puppy's neck, attach a long lead, and for the first couple of lessons, follow the puppy, letting him lead you. After this, kindly and gently coax the puppy to walk beside you, being lavish in your praise and encouragement. Pet the pup frequently and keep the session short. The puppy will want to please you and will soon enjoy these walks. Don't use a chain or choke collar in teaching a puppy to lead. But for an older dog, a nylon choke collar is preferable-it does not wear down the coat. 
There are puppy kindergarten classes for very young puppies, but formal obedience training is not recommended before six months of age. Informal obedience training may be started soon after you take your puppy home. Simple commands such as "Sit", "Down", "Come", "No", etc. are useful for everyday life, indoors and out. From the start, show your puppy who is master (for he may well try to be his own!) and once a command is given, insist on its being performed. Again, use kindness and firmness. A displeased tone of voice uttered as a reprimand is usually sufficient discipline. If an older pup needs more discipline, shake the dog by the back of the neck. 
Whenever you have questions or problems, feel free to call the breeder. They know your puppy best. The GPCA's Code of Ethics states, "A breeder shall be available to his buyer for whatever advice, reasonable aid and assistance they may need for the life of that dog." 
(A publication of the Great Pyrenees Club of America, rev. 1982)

Obedience Training               

All responsible dog people, no matter what breed they "fancy", will tell you that basic obedience training is crucial for developing a happy relationship with your pet. It is even more important when you own a large guardian breed. 
That little ball of fluff may seem adorable now as he careens around your living room, but will you feel the same about the large, powerful adult who drags you through the neighborhood on walks, or knocks your guests over? 

Early Training
Early conditioning can begin right away! House breaking, leash training, and teaching the meaning of "no" are all essential early experiences. Play time can also be non-stressful training time as you encourage your pup to come to you when you call him, look up into your face as he plops into a sit, or settle into a down for a nice belly rub. Puppy training should emphasize praise and positive experiences, and not demand the pup's attention for too long. 
Socialization is also extremely important. Once immunizations are complete, exposure to other dogs, people of all sizes and shapes, and different sights and smells will help to create a confident adult. 

Obedience Training Classes
Selecting the right class is important, especially for the beginner. Does the trainer seem helpful and interested in your dog? Has she worked with a wide variety of breeds in the past, including giants? Be aware that there are a wide range of approaches to obedience. Some like to use only praise and reinforcement, while others advocate very strong physical correction early in the training process. The best instructors recognize that each dog is an individual. A trainer that insists that your Pyr will respond exactly like a Golden Retriever is setting you up for frustration. 

Typical Pyr
Pyr owners need to keep in mind the traditional role that Pyrenees were bred to fulfill: that of flock guardian. Pyrenees roamed the mountains with their flocks, and had to be alert to danger. Intelligence, independence, and physical toughness were prized. Flock guardian also needed to be still most of the time (so as not to spook the sheep) while being able to explode into quick action in defense of their charges. While each dog is an individual, these common breed traits have implications for trainers. 
Intelligence: Pyrs are quick learners, but they bore easily. Once the basics of an exercise are learned, the average Pyr can get very turned off by repetition. Vary your lessons as you work for precision and avoid "drilling" or pattern training. Throw in new lessons to pique your dog's interest. Keep lessons short - a few minutes once or twice a day. 
Stillness: Because our breed is calm by nature, it's often easy to teach the stand-stay, sit-stay, and down-stay. But sheep guardians tend to move at a leisurely pace. They can be very quick and agile when they want to be, but they often don't see the point. This can translate into lagging when heeling, and very slow recalls. Inject as much fun as possible into your training, and work for an "up" attitude. 
Independence and alertness: Pyrs are often very sensitive to new environments. They may choose to ignore you as they focus on an unusual sight or sound. Expose your Pyr to lots of different situations in practice (known as proofing). You can get that attention. 
Physical toughness: Training methods that rely on the dog "working to avoid a correction" may backfire with a Pyr. You may need to experiment with collars and leads to get them to notice a correction, much less respond to it. Try a range of training methods and equipment, including more positive approaches, until you find the mix that's right for your dog. 
Very little "chase" or "retrieve" instinct: Pyrs tend to have very low drives in these areas. Pups rarely engage in retrieving games. If you have a pup that shows any interest in fetch games, foster it! And even if you don't, patience and praise can help you cross even this gigantic hurdle. 

Showing in Obedience
In obedience, you need not "win" to earn a degree. You only need a minimum qualifying score on the exercises. Because of this, obedience people tend to be very supportive of each other's efforts. We are not in competition with each other. Rather, we are all striving toward a theoretically correct performance. We each get to set our own individual goals within the larger scope of the sport. 
Sometimes owners who are interested in conformation showing worry that obedience training might have a negative effect. Just the opposite is true! Obedience will enhance responsiveness and handleability and can be a real asset to the conformation dog. Some of the top conformation dogs of all time have also held obedience degrees. 

Other Obedience-Related Activities
There's a whole world of fun activities that you can participate in with your dog, once you have trained him. Visits to nursing homes, hiking, backpacking, carting, agility, tracking: the only limit is your imagination! 
The GPCA, in an effort to support and encourage owners who wish to discover the full potential in their dogs, offers a fun and rewarding Versatility program. Owners participate in a variety of activites, to earn points toward three different levels of versatility degrees. For more information, contact the GPCA. 

Resources
Whether you are training on your own, or want to know more, there are some useful resources: 
The American Kennel Club, 5580 Centerview Drive, Raleigh, NC 27606-3390. Write to them for a list of obedience clubs in your area. While you're at it, send $1.00 along, and request a copy of the OBEDIENCE REGULATIONS. A must have! 
FRONT AND FINISH, P. O. Box 333, Galesburg, IL 61402. Subscription is $24/year. This is a monthly newspaper, covering all aspects of obedience, including regional news, training tips, interviews with top handlers, book reviews, and equipment resources. 

Books
Visit your local public library or bookstore. While we do not wish to endorse a particular author or training method, some well-respected obedience authors include: Diane Buaman, Carol Lea Benjamin, Jack and Wendy Volhard, Bashkim Dibra, and Brian Kilcommons. There are a lot of other good books out there as well. If you see or hear of an obedience title that interests you, remember that you can preview it by borrowing it from your local public library. If your library does not own it, they often can borrow it for you from another library. 

Conclusion
Any obedience enthusiast will tell you that the time spent working with your dog can create an intellectual and emotional bond between you that goes well beyond the normal "pet" relationship. In the end, we all end up with the dog/owner relationship that we deserve. Doesn't your dog deserve the depth of communication with you that obedience can provide? 
Contact with other people who own and love your breed can be a truly wonderful resource for anyone who is working through training challenges. In addition, breed enthusiasts often have a world of knowledge and experience to offer for someone who is just getting started. For more information contact the GPCA. 

Grooming the Great Pyrenees

If you can manage 30 minutes a week to groom and inspect your Great Pyrenees, you should have no trouble maintaining that beautiful coat and a healthy pet. 
Regular grooming and inspection at least once a week are necessary for your Pyr -- from puppyhood throughout his life. 
If you've looked at a big, beautiful Pyr and thought what a chore it must be to keep that white coat looking lovely, rest assured it is not that difficult. The Great Pyrenees is one of the easiest of all breeds to maintain properly because he has been endowed with a coat which is self-cleaning, tangle and mat resistant. It may sound like one of the new miracle fabrics. It’s not. It is an old miracle. That coat really does shed dirt, really does clean itself! 
The Pyrenees coat is deceptive. The texture of the outer hair is coarse. Underneath is another coat, soft and wooly 
The once-a-week grooming/inspection session will suffice in most cases to keep the dog looking in top form. It won't hurt to run a wire card brush across the coat every other day to pick up any loose hairs, but too frequent brushing may break off hair ends. 
The weekly grooming and inspection will provide an opportunity for you to check the dog's ears, eyes, mouth, body and feet for possible problems, of which you should have none if you are consistent in your grooming. 

Start With Head
For this weekly session start your examination at the dog's head. If the eyes are tearing unduly (and on white dogs this red/brown stain is unattractive) they may need attention. Check the ears. If a black discharge and foul smell are found, ear canker/ear mites may be starting. Any such discovery, when treated early, can forestall serious trouble. Healthy ears may be cleaned with a cotton ball and rubbing alcohol. Long hairs (eyebrows) over the eyes should be trimmed. This prevents them from growing into the eye. 
Toe nails must at all times be kept short enough to clear the ground, a good foot can be ruined by overly-long nails as the pressure of the nails on the ground causes the toes to splay out. Nails may be trimmed with nail cutters or a high speed grinder. If you make the nail trimming a weekly ritual, you'll have no problems. Should the nails grow out, it then takes special care to get them back to where they should be. Always check the dewclaws (single in front, double behind) and keep them trimmed. These tend to curl as they grow and can grow into the dog's leg and become painful. 
Your inspection complete, you're ready to groom. Starting at the head and working down to the tail, brush out all the dead hairs with a brush. Pay special attention to the thick ruff round the neck, the rump and the pantaloons on the rear legs and the feathers on the front legs. If mats and tangles have formed (and they shouldn’t with routine grooming) you may cut these out. Just be careful that the scissors doesn't cut the skin, as it is easy to do when working with mats, which get in close to the skin. A comb really isn't necessary in this weekly session, other than to loosen clumps or mats of undercoat which may be out of reach of the short pin or wire brush. 

An Occasional Bath
When your dog is shedding his coat (and this varies with the individual, some shedding once a year, others seeming to shed all the time) it may help to get a "rake" with teeth 1" to 11/2" long to pull out the loosened undercoat. This also may be the time a bath will help, as a warm bath does wonders to "blow" a coat and lift it out quickly. While we're talking about bathing, chances are your pet will need few baths. If he's healthy and well-groomed regularly, he will look and smell great and be welcome in your home 
No matter how carefully you wash, brush, trim, etc. that final bloom of good health must come from inside (see brochure on Error! Bookmark not defined. <gcare.html>). 
Coat conditioning and grooming are continual and the responsibility lies squarely on the owners shoulders. If you keep him healthy and comfortable he can live with himself. If you keep him neat and sweet smelling, you can live with him. It's that simple. 

Show Bathing
Readying your Pyr for the show ring is another matter. Show grooming is time consuming, Frustrating -- and satisfying. 
First decide whether it is to be a wet bath or a dry one. The determining factor is how tight the hair. If a pin brush run backwards through the coat is not clogged with hair and a little pinch of hair on the fore leg does not come out in your fingers when tugged gently, it is probably safe to wet wash. If you have guessed wrong -- the coat goes down the drain. Before wetting the coat, brush out the loose hair. Loose hair mats like felt when washed. 
Shampoo--There are many excellent ones. Make sure it is made for dogs not people. There are shampoos for white coats, ones for parasite problems and ones for a coat in poor condition. 
To six inches of water add one cup of La France granular laundry bluing. This helps the water get through a thick coat and takes care of the whitening problems. In goes the Pyr, wet well, add shampoo, and wash away, paying close attention to the elbows and belly hair. When lathered well all over except around the eyes and muzzle, smooth the hair tight to the body, stand back and take a moment to find out what your Pyr really looks like without the full white picture frame. With a soapy cloth, carefully wash around the eyes and muzzle. Then rinse and rinse and rinse again. Remove from the tub and encourage to shake. Do not scrub at a show coat -- blot. If it is not approaching shedding time and you have a dryer, use it. If not, let your wet mop dry about half way, then with your Pyr prone, pin brush. Brush up against the hair, layer by layer, until dog is a dry, fluffy, shapeless mound. Put Pyr on feet and lightly brush with the hair to give a soft outline. So much for the water bath. 

Dry Cleaning
Dry cleaning is a labor of love. Hard to believe but it is possible to take a tan colored Pyr and get him as clean as one that has been wet washed. 
Fill a spray bottle two thirds full of Blue Ribbon Kote-Glo and one third full of Roux, Ultra White Minx (rinse for human hair). There are several different dry materials that can be used in various combinations: 
· Johnson Baby Powder -- Kind to coat but expensive. 
· Corn Starch -- Water soluble, hard to remove in humid weather. 
· Calcium Carbonate (painter's whiting) -- Gives body to a soft coat but is very drying 
· Boric Acid Powder -- Use with caution, poison. Great for pink drool stains on the chest. Acts as mild bleach. Takes time. 
· Baking Soda -- Use in conjunction with first three. Cuts dust and makes removal easier. 
Armed with spray bottle of Kote-Glo and White Minx, shaker can (flour sifter works well) of dry material and unsuspecting canine resting on his side, begin. Starting at the belly, one hand holding the hair, second hand wielding the pin brush and operating the spray bottle, work upwards. Brush, dampen, sprinkle. Every three or four inches work powder in well with hands. Do body, neck, and skull (cover eyes). If tail is not too dirty include, otherwise clean as legs. Legs, soak with contents of spray bottle and work into a foam, towel off. Keep changing to a clean spot on the towel or you just rub the dirt back in. When legs are just damp, with a teasing or vegetable brush, pack hair with powder -- put lots of powder on top of brush and rub against the hair with short strokes and allow to dry. The powder holds the hair at right angles to the leg. When powder is removed the legs have a nice soft cylindrical look. Then work Kote-Glo and White Minx into a foam on a sponge or washcloth, apply to muzzle and around eyes. Towel off. 
If possible do the dry cleaning the day before the show, as a great deal of the powder will fall out during the night making your final grooming much easier. To remove the powder, use a vacuum cleaner on the body and a bristle type Afghan brush on the legs and tail. Point to remember; Chapter 16, Section 9B, A.K.C. rules prohibit taking a dog into the ring with powder or other foreign substance in the coat. 

Show Trimming
Whiskers and eyebrows should be removed. Eyebrows must be kept short lest they grow into the eye. 
Ears, especially on puppies, can be very unkempt. With coarse, double bladed, thinning shears work against the hair from the leather out. Remove the excess hair a little at a time. The last stragglers may be removed by a quick downward jerk with the thumb and forefinger. Be sure the ears match when finished. 
Toenails must at all times be kept short enough to clear the ground. 
Fore feet and legs: Feet first -- with a pair of barber's scissors, trim excess hair from bottom of foot and around the edge so you have a smooth line where the foot meets the floor. With pin brush backbrush the hair on the sides and top of foot, shape with your thinning shears. Comb the feather below the carpus (pastern) straight out, with scissors trim straight down from carpus to the bottom of the heel pad. If your Pyr is well up on his pasterns, and you want to accentuate the fact, clean out hair from the side of the heel pad in a wide V. To establish the line, hold foot slightly bent at wrist. Lay scissors along the heel pad, pointed to front of the wrist joint. Observe. This is the line to cut. To establish other side of V, cut along upper edge of heel pad. 
Hind Feet. Same as (rent with the exception of the V cut to show pastern, rather with scissors pointing down, trim rear toes close. 
Metatarsus. It is also called the hock. Comb the hair straight out, smooth down lightly. With your barber's scissors mold the hair. Don't cut too much. Cut down with the hair. Cutting across leaves ridges. The bone and hair should appear to be solid mass. Trim neatly across the bottom or blend to heel pad as in front, around the dewclaws, and you are finished. 
For those who are going to become involved in showing, watch the professional handlers. For scissors work the Poodle people; for educated fingers and cob work, the Terrier people; and for super pin brush layering, the Old English Sheepdog groomers. 
Parting thought -- in your zeal to keep your show dog a thing of beauty and a joy to behold, do not lose sight of the fact that he is a living, breathing, feeling creature known as canine. Not a stuffed toy nor an animated snowdrift -- he needs to run, play and get dirty. 
(A publication of the Great Pyrenees Club of America)